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Fish Photography: Basic Guide to Photographing Fishes |
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Tuesday, 27 June 2006 |
Introduction
 Fishes are perhaps one of the hardest subjects to photograph. It requires much patience and knowledge to get the results you want. I can't claim to be the world's best fish photographer, but I can share with you some basic techniques that will make your first fish photography session a less frustrating one.
Equipments
I won't lie to you that just any camera will do for fish photography. Most fishes are fast moving and definitely not easy to capture in their greatest splendor without the nasties like motion-blur and tank reflections. However, here are some useful equipments that will help make the process a whole lot easier.
Good Camera
What makes a good camera for fish photography is one that lets you fire multiple snaps at a relatively fast speed. If you could afford a SLR/Digital SLR, that would be the best. Otherwise, a higher-grade point-and-shoot camera will work fine as well. At the same time, both types of camera would also provide you with the options to shoot in manual mode for more control.
Circular Polarizer Filter
The reason why SLR and high-end point-and-shoot cameras are preferred is also due to their abilities to fit filters in front of their lenses. The Circular Polarizer (CP) filter really works wonder for cutting out aquarium glass reflections, which would otherwise be difficult to avoid. By shooting at an angle from the glass and adjusting the CP by turning it with your fingers, you'll see the reflection magically disappear from the viewfinder.
Lightings
This one is easy. Simply get as much lighting power as you could get your hands on. The better the lighting, the higher the shutter speed you could use on your camera, which will help "freeze" any movement of your fishes. However, be sure to get "daylight" lightings so your pictures will not turn out too "warm" or "cold". Of course, this can still be compensated if you have experience adjusting your camera's White Balance setting.
Flash
Never use an on-camera flash. More often than not, the flash will bounce off the glass and produce horrendous results on your pictures. If you own an external flash unit that can be triggered off-camera, try positioning the flash above the aquarium. The results would be so much better. Otherwise, try bouncing the flash off your ceiling by pointing the flash head straight up or 45-degrees, depending on the distance from your aquarium that you are working with. Flash results can differ largely from the many factors that could affect it. So keep experimenting! If you are shooting digital, all you would be wasting is battery power.
Black Cloth
A large black cloth positioned behind you can help avoid any reflections that might show up in your pictures. This can be a little tricky to setup. Perhaps the most economical way is to get someone to hold it for you while you take some quick snaps. Although certainly not feasible, if you plan to sit for hours waiting for that golden shot.
Camera Settings
Shooting Mode – Use Aperture Priority (AP) mode.
Aperture – Try to set this number as low as possible. The lower the number, the more light enters the lens and thus a higher shutter speed can be used. A high shutter speed will help "freeze" motions. Only increase this if you require larger Depth of Field.
Shutter speed – In AP mode, your camera should be able to accurately calculate the fastest shutter speed to use together with your selected aperture.
ISO – Sensitivity to light. If you find that your shutter speed is too slow even with the lowest aperture number selected, try bumping up the ISO. For every ISO step (50, 100, 200, 400, 800, etc), you should be able to achieve shutter speeds twice as fast. The downside is that the higher the ISO setting, the more “noise” is generated in the resulting photo. They can be very unsightly especially in point-and-shoot cameras.
Shooting Technique
Like any form of photography, proper handholding and breathing techniques must be observed. Tuck your elbows in and hold your breath right before depressing the shutter. If you find that you can track your fishes successfully while having your camera mounted on a tripod, by all means do so. A tripod can help keep camera shakes to a minimum, a key to tack-sharp pictures.
Conclusion
Finally, the most important aspect of fish photographer is patience. Like any form of animals and pets photography, the subject can be camera-shy or simply unwilling to cooperate. So patience is truly a necessity for capturing those special moments of your precious fishes’ lives. Hope this guide has provided you with the basics to begin your venture into fish photography! |
